Application of Perfume Compounds into perfumes and colognes


 One the main products produced from perfume compounds are the alcoholic solutions. Perfumes, colognes, after shaves etc.
 

Product (%Perfume)  Main Ingredients Special Considerations
Extrait Perfumes 20-50% Alcohol 95%, 
Tinctures 
Colour		 Alcohol Solubilty. 
Photo toxicity of cold pressed citrus oils. 
Monoterpenes unstable over extended periods. 
Use Terpeneless oils.
Eau de Parfum  10-15% Alcohol 80% 
Water 5-15% 
Tinctures 
Colour		 As Extrait Perfumes. 

Higher water content gives stronger odour

Eau de Toilette  5-8% Alcohol 70-85%, 
Water 10-20%, 
Tinctures, 
Colour		 As Extrait Perfumes. 

Higher water content gives stronger odour

After Shave (Men's Cologne) 3-8% Alcohol 60 -85% 
Water 15-30% 
Emolient (to decrease stinging effect)
Colour		 As Extrait Perfumes. 

If a true after-shave then a lower percentage is advisable to decrease the irritating effect of the perfume components, lower water content also permits more water to be added and so reduce the stinging effect of the alcohol. The addition of emolients helps also.

Eau de Cologne  3-5% Alcohol 60 -85% 
Water 15-30% 
Colour		 As Extrait Perfumes. 

Higher water content gives even stronger odour than would be expected from the high dilution

 
 

Alcohol - The alcohol to use for perfume products is Ethyl Alcohol (also called Ethanol, Grain alcohol). This is the alcohol that occurs in Whisky, Vodka etc. The problem is that supply is strictly controlled by revenue departments worldwide. Why - because its taxable. The grades that big companies use are industrial grade ethanols, in order to control the use of these grades, denaturants are added to prevent us drinking them. There are various methods used eg Ethanol B contains 2% of n-propanol (Propyl Alcohol) and a trace of Bitrex ( a bitter tasting additive). You will also see names like SD Alcohol and you can check these in a CTFA Directory (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, USA). If you use industriual grade alcohol make sure 1) you have a licence from your customs and excise department, 2) keep records of how you use every cc and 3) check local regulations with your local Fire prevention officer.

Absolute Alcohol  Tax paid reagent grade alcohol is available from chemical and laboratory suppliers but needless to say its pretty expensive (think the price of Vodka). Usually labelled Absolute Alcohol, SVR Alcohol. 99% + pure it has almost no water content. Odour is usually good.

Alternatives to alcohol are;

IPA (iso-propyl alcohol, iso-propanol) but the top note is a bit smelly. OK for lower priced products, air-fresheners.

IPM  iso propyl myristate. An oily solvent with a low odour. Not all oils or aroma chemicals are clearly soluble. Cosmetic grades are not irritant. Do not buy indusrtrial grades. Helps to fix the perfume but may suppress the diffussion. A popular replacement for alcohol in Islamic countries where the use of Ethyl Alcohol may be prohibited. Note IPM will not mix with water.

Methanol  (Wood alcohol, Meths, Methylated spirits) is sometimes used but please do not use as it is highly poisonous if ingested, causing blindness and death.