Perfumery
Training Kit K26
FAQ - Frequently asked
questions
What are the Fleuressence Bases included
in the kit?
Fleuressence Bases were developed by PerfumersWorld to represent
prime smells from which any other odour or perfume type can be mixed.
A bit like the way your computer or TV screen uses just 3 colours
to make millions of colours and pictures. We have combined these
into 26 groups and listed them A-Z to help
you remember them easily.
How many different perfumes can I make?
Because the kit uses 26 prime
odour types based on The
ABC's of Perfumery there are an unlimited
number of types that you can make (well, not less than 5,000,000,000,000,000).
Enough to make a 1,000,000 unique perfumes for each and every person
on the planet. However you'd need quite a few tons of perfume and
a few lifetimes to make that many in practice.
How much perfume can I make with the kit?
The bases are concentrated and normal full
strength perfumes use about 25% of concentrate. In your kit you
have 25 x 10cc* (250cc) of concentrated materials so you could make
up to 1,000g or 32oz of perfume - How much is 1 oz
of your favorite perfume in the department store ?. If you
make a cologne @ 5% (we don't supply the alcohol for safety and
customs reasons) - you could make up to 5 litres (more than 1 gallon
) and if you are perfuming soaps, shampoos or creams there's enough
for between 25 and 50 litres (5 -10 gallons).
* A total of 250 cc of concentrated Fleuressence
bases and 100cc non-alcoholic solvent.
Are the materials safe?
All the bases are manufactured under the industry guidelines of
IFRA - The International Fragrance Association, Switzerland
and RIFM - The Research Institute of
Fragrance Materials, USA. A little care is needed to keep them out
of the reach of children or persons unable to read or understand
the safety instructions. The materials are the same as found
in your Haute Couture perfumes and are no more dangerous than those
and certainly not as dangerous as many household cleaning products. |
Here is a list
of the materials in the Perfumery Training Kit and their uses but
the only limit is your imagination:
A B C
D E F
G H I
J K L
M N
O P Q
R S T
U V
W X Y
Z
Please note not all
combinations will give clear solutions in the non-alcoholic Zolvent
Fleuressence solvent supplied.
As an alternative try alcohol
if you are permitted to use. The cloudiness will not affect the
smell and if used in products such as creams, soap etc. will not
be noticed.
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The ABC's of
Perfumery A-Z
Fleuressenceä1988
Bases
are concentrated bases made from blends of essential oils,
absolutes, resinoids, isolates, and approved aroma chemicals.
They are not complete perfumes in themselves but are mixed
by you to create your own unique blends in the same way
an artist uses colours.
Prime Note Odour Description
Suggested uses |
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A
Aldehyde Fleuressenceä
10cc
Fatty, Waxy, Soapy, Clean
Forms the basis of Aldehydic florals eg.
Chanel No. 5, Madame Rochas, Arpege, Rive Gauche, Lux
Soap.
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B
ice-Berg Fleuressenceä
10cc
Cooling notes
Added to Colognes and fresh types in traces to give lift.
For Vapex type products. Add to fruity notes to produce
a blackcurrant like twist.
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C
Citrus Fleuressenceä
10cc
Sour, Sharp, Citrus peel
Forms the top notes in Eau de Colognes, men's fragrances
and can be used as the top note in almost any type.
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D
Dairy Fleuressenceä
10cc
Milky, Cream, Butter, Cheese
Mainly an edible character but use in traces with fruity
notes to make peach or with narcotic notes and jasmin
to give a tuberose like character. Add green notes to
this to produce gardenia.
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E
Edible Fleuressenceä
10cc
Vegetable, Nut, Fish, Meat
Traces only for novel effects with herb, spices and green
notes.
Cloudy at high concentrations in the non-alcoholic solvent
base
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F
Fruit Fleuressenceä
10cc
Sour, Sweet fruits, Berry, Pineapple
On its own berry like but add traces of any other note.
Add vanilla and green to make it more strawberry like.
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G
Green Fleuressenceä
10cc
Cut-grass, Leaves
Adds a cool fresh natural green top note to any type of
fragrance but if overdone becomes chemical. Add to Rose
with a trace of fruity to make Tea rose
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H
Herb Fleuressenceä
10cc
Cool Herb notes
Herb notes blended with oakmoss are the foundation of
the fougere family.
Add to green notes to get an Alliage like top note.
Very useful with spicy, animal and traces of phenol and
tar for men's notes.
Add icy notes (iceBerg) to bring out the lavender
character.
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I
Iris Fleuressenceä
10cc
Orris, Violet
Green and Iris for a violet note. Use as a blender in
almost any type.
With rose and aldehyde for a White Linen style note. With
green notes for Chanel 19 types.
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J
Jasmin Fleuressenceä
10cc
Fruity, Oily, Jasmin
Jasmin by itself or add narcotic notes for depth.
Try adding green notes and linalool for a Jasmin Sambac
type.
Blend with Rose, aldehydes, narcotic notes and a trace
of green for a Joy character
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K
Konifer Fleuressenceä
Conifer, Pine, Pineneedle
10cc
Fresh pine notes blend well with aldehydes for a Badedas
type bath product or with green, herb and moss notes for
the basis of a men perfume like Paco Rabbanne.
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L
Linalool Fleuressenceä
10cc
Fresh light floral chemical
If there is a basic material in perfumery - this
is it.
A universal blender it acts as a bridge between top notes
and florals in the middle notes. Over-use esp. with green
notes brings out its chemical character.
Linalool must now be labeled when used for products in
Europe.
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M
Muguet Fleuressenceä
10cc
Lily of the Valley, Green, Fresh
A wonderful fragrance on its own but also indispensable
in so many types.
The foundation for Diorissimo style when used with rose
and jasmin.
Add more green plus jasmin, narcotic and animal notes
to move towards the transparent green florals so popular
today such as Miyake, Tommy etc.
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N
Narcotic Fleuressenceä
10cc
Heavy Sweet Florals, Absolutes
The narcotic florals so called as they are sweet heavy,
sickly in overdose, almost intoxicating. Jasmin falls
into this group as well as does tuberose, gardenia, ylang
ylang.
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O
Orchid Fleuressenceä
10cc
Aromatic, Deep floral
Most Orchids have very little smell but there are a lot
in nature with very different types. However in perfumery
Orchid refers to a salicylate like aromatic note, like
wintergreen, but more floral. You'll notice notes in common
with root beer, sprain relief cream, Californian Poppy,
L'air du Temps etc. The flower pictured is Frangipani
which displays the typical salicylate note.
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P
Phenol Fleuressenceä10cc
Phenol, Medicinal, Honey
The phenol note is very difficult to use but important
for Indian type attars when used with narcotic and woody
notes. When vanilla is mixed with phenols their honey
characteristics come out. Phenols with animal, mossy and
woody notes become leather like.
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Q
Queen of the Orient Fleuressenceä10cc
Resin, Balsam
Classic oriental fragrances are built around the balsamic
note.
With citrus top notes a Shalimar style with green notes
Obsession, with spice Opium.
Orientals also require, animal, vanilla, moss, woody,
and musk notes to complete the picture.
Please note this produces cloudiness. in the non-alcoholic
solvent base so use sparingly.
Optimized for alcohol but still requires chilling and
filtering. |
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R
Rose Fleuressenceä
10cc
Rose, Geranium
Rose can be developed in almost any direction. Green and
fruity notes for a tea Rose.
Spicy notes for a Red Rose. Cool notes for a Rose Attar.
Blends so well with Jasmin and Muguet that the three are
almost inseparable and at the heart of almost every classic
fragrance. You just have to get the proportions right.
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S
Spice Fleuressenceä
10cc
Hot Culinary, Spice
Spice for men notes, blend so easily with the herb and
citrus. Used on their own or with vanilla a touch of fruit
and citrus for a Christmas fragrance for Potpourri or
candles
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T
Tar 'n Smoke Fleuressenceä
10cc
Smoke, Tar, Burnt
Difficult to see where smoky notes fit in perfumery but
important for the completion of the range of odours. Traces
useful for Indian and South Asian domestic perfumes.
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Civet
Castoreum |
U
Urine - Animal Fleuressenceä
10cc
Animal, Faecal, Leather , Urine
Animal notes - disgusting in concentration but soft and
sensual at the right dilution.
Use traces in all florals especially Lily of the Valley.
Use with phenols for a leather effect and with herbs and
spices for Aramis notes.
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V
Vanilla Fleuressenceä
10cc
Sweet Edible, Vanilla
Sickly when overdone but add sweetness and depth when
used skilfully.
Very hard to use with green notes. With moss and herb
gives a nice fougere character.
Clashes when used in combination with citrus notes to
produce a powdery 'cream soda' effect
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W
Wood Fleuressenceä
10cc
Wood, Oily
At the heart and base of so many fragrances that the list
would become meaningless.
No men's perfume would be possible without large proportions
of woody notes.
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X
X-rated Musk Fleuressenceä
10cc
Sexy, Musk, Sensual, Sweet
At the heart and base of every fragrance. Real musk from
the Tibetan musk Deer is not an option with today's animal
welfare consciousness but there are some pretty good alternatives.
A trace in every single fragrance type helps to liven
it up but overdo it and it puts out a perfumes glow quicker
than a fireman. Some modern linear (single note) perfumes
use upwards of 30% of musks. If you are one of many that
cannot smell the musks you can probably still detect the
effect of using them with a little practice
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Y
Mossy Fleuressenceä
10cc
Yeast, Earthy, Fungal, Moss, Marine
The smell of the forest floor, decaying leaves and mushrooms
and yet is vital in traces in every type from fresh colognes
to heavy ambery orientals.
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Z
Zolvent Fleuressenceä
100cc
Odourless non-alcoholic solvent
Use to make an oil perfume, or dilute the stronger smelling
bases for more convenient mixing.
Note for shipping and customs purposes we do not supply
Alcohol with the kits.
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To order in the PerfumersWorld
Showroom-on-line Click ORDER SUPPLIES |
Can I get more supplies?
Yes, If refills for your kits are required we can supply them by
the ounce. If you get that masterpiece just right and want to go
into mass production then we can supply by the kilogram or even
the ton. Check the link below
What if I want to expand on the kit?
The wonder of the kit is that you can add to it as your abilities
develop. There are more than 100 Fleuressence that you can choose
from for that special effect and once we know you can handle them
we can help you with more than 500 aroma chemicals and essential
oils. If you can't find the type you are looking for - let us know.
Take a look at the this picture kit of 160+ materials that our students
get with the big courses. You can even progress to study with PerfumersWorld
to professional competence with our unique creative perfumery training
system.
What products can I use the perfumes I
make in?
Perfumes, colognes, after-shaves, soaps, liquid soaps, pot pourri,
creams, lotions, shampoos, hair conditioners, hair sprays, air fresheners,
aromatherapy burners, paper products, talcum powder, massage oils,
candles, joss sticks. All combinations may not be stable and some
color change is common - simply test the perfume in a small amount
of the product first and store it to check for changes. Do not use
the materials in the kit for flavoring or in lipsticks.
Can The
Pefumer's Workbook run on a Mac?
We do not have a specific version for the Mac but users report it
can run on Macs with Connectix Virtual PC (www.connectix.com). The
best thing to do is run the free
download to see if it works on your set-up. |
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Fleuressenceä1988-The
Perfumers WorkbookÓ1998-The
ABC's of PerfumeryÓ1998 |
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Are
Copyrighted Works and Trademarks of PerfumersWorld, PerfumersWorld
Ltd. & Stephen V. Dowthwaite |
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