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A PERFUME CONCENTRATE, known
in the trade as a "COMPOUND"
is typically a liquid made up from a mixture of aroma materials
of
synthetic and/or natural origin from the following groups.
The percentage indicates the proportions that might be found in
modern perfume compound.
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Essential Oils
& Extracts
0-30%
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Animal
Products
Zero-0.1%
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Aroma
Chemicals
70-100%
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Distilled
Steam evaporates
volatile oil held in plant material
which floats on the cooled water allowing it to be
separated.
The Oil is usually a light color as color molecules
are generally large and not volatile.
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Expressed
Juice is squeezed
out of the fruit
and the oil separated.
Expressed oils
are usually a lighter color version of the fruit
they come from.
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Extracted
Solvents such as hexane and petroleum ether dissolve
oil, wax and color in the plant material. The
solvents are evaporated off to produce a CONCRETE.
Waxes in the Concrete can be removed using alcohol
which in turn is evaporated off to leave a dark colored ABSOLUTE
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Tinctures
Animal Secretions
or glands are
steeped in
alcohol.
A dark colored
ABSOLUTE
can be produced by
removing the
alcohol.
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Crude Oil Isolates
Raw chemicals (not used
themselves in perfumes) such as Benzene, Toluene, Naphthalene, Phenol and
Xylol are separated from crude oil and go through a series of reactions
to produce thousands of aroma chemicals.
Many of these synthetic chemicals
are identical to those found in nature, hence the term Nature Identical.
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Essential Oil Isolates
Single chemicals
separated from essential oils. If these are produced
by physical means - distillation or cooling then they are termed natural
chemicals.
(Often used to produce
other chemicals by simple reactions
such as acetylation or as starting materials in a long series of reactions)
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From Flowers:
Lavender
Ylang
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From Fruits:
Orange
Lemon
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From Flowers:
Jasmin
Rose
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Beaver:
Castoreum
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From Benzene:
P.E.A
Galaxolide
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From Turpentine:
Pinene
(Linalool)
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From Leaves:
Eucalyptus
Geranium
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From Gums:
Benzoin
Labdanum
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Cat:
Civet
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From Toluene:
Benzyl
Acetate
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From Lemongrass:
Citral
(Ionone)
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From Buds/Seeds:
Clove
Cardamom
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From Lichens:
Oakmoss
Treemoss
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Deer:
Musk
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From Naphthalene:
Methyl
Anthranilate
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From Clove:
Eugenol
(Vanillin)
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From Grasses:
Vetiver
Lemongrass
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Whale:
Ambergris
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From Phenol:
Eugenol
Evernyl
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From Vetiver:
Vetiverol
(Vetiveryl Acetate)
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From Woods:
Turpentine
Sandalwood
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From Xylene:
Musk Xylol
Musk Ketone
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From Peppermint:
Menthol
(Menthyl Acetate)
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